Settling In and Sorting It Out

I arrived in Alanya on Thursday afternoon, and so far, so good.  No rest for the weary–I performed later that night.  Loved the stage, loved the crowd, and really, really love the people who hired me.  I also got to meet the other two belly dancers.  One is friendly, curly-headed (automatic points in her favor), and pleasant.  The other is a zenne, or male belly dancer.  He’s moody and rude-y.  What do you mean, why am I in the dressing room?  Because I’m a major star, that’s why!  Maybe he was having an off-personality day.  I’ll give him another chance.

First night on the job!

First night on the job!

The apartment they gave us is gorgeous, with views of the Mediterranean Sea from every window.  I’m sharing it with the bookkeeper.  She works seven days a week, from 9:00am to midnight, which is a definite bonus in a roommate.  The management has been working diligently to get everything complete in the house, which has been vacant for quite some time–cleaning, replacing appliances, purchasing a full length mirror so my roommate can check herself out, etc.  There was just one (major) problem.  The refrigerator they’d bought second hand and had moved into the house just before I arrived, while unassuming enough in daylight, was SWARMING WITH ROACHES that scattered guiltily when we came home from work that evening and flicked on the light.  I may be vegan, but roaches are where I draw the line.  First thing the following morning, the exterminator was called, the refrigerator was removed, and poison was sprayed.  I usually don’t like chemicals–I clean my house with vinegar, baking soda, and castile soap–but again, these were extenuating circumstances.  The problem seems to have been remedied.  I saw one lone roach today, lying dead on his back.  May he rest in peace.

Friday, yesterday, was my off day, and time explore the neighborhood, visit the beach, get friendly with the cafe owner downstairs, start an argument with (then immediately apologize to) the girl at Migros who sold me some stale nuts, and finally rest from the emotional, hectic, and vermin-laced roller-coaster I’d been riding since leaving Istanbul.

Traumatic cockroach experience aside, everything has been great.  I think I’m going to like it here.

Practice and Programs

For my next long term gig, they’ve requested two shows.  One for Turkish Night, and the other for Palace Night.

Palace Night entertainment features, but is not limited to (i.e. I don’t remember the whole program): a fusion dance group of two or three, a Russian revue dance group, a Russian-speaking comedian, and me.  I think I will perform candle tray that night.  (Sorry, Mom.  I know you hate fire.)

Turkish night includes live music, another belly dancer (she’s from Turkmenistan), a zenne (male belly dancer), a folk dance group, a Kafkas group (I love this.  The female dancers are elegant and graceful, and the men do this thing where they parade around on their toes, which is cool and surprisingly masculine.)  For Turkish Night, I think I’ll incorporate some floor work and a cane dance.  “But cane dancing is Egyptian and Lebanese!” you say.  And I say, “So, what?”

Months ago, in one of my updates, I mentioned that I had been doing some improvisations with darbuka player Coşar Kamçı, formerly of Baba Zula, and promised that I would post one online eventually.  Well, I probably never would have, but my drummer did, so here it is.  I think we recorded this one in August of 2012.  Please note: the refrigerator in the background and my sigh of relief at the end signify authenticity.

Adventures in Danceland

So, my mother came to Turkey for the first time.  Yay!

Mom and me.  Do we look alike?

Mom and me. Do we look alike?

We had a great time and did lots!  Here is one of our adventures:

A talent manager/agent contacted me to discuss at length (ad nauseum?) an opportunity to perform at hotels in Alanya, but I turned it down.  What he’d described  didn’t seem like a good fit.–It sounded very similar to what I’d done in Bodrum two summers ago, which was only wonderful until I got fed up with it.  Plus, I’d already been to Alanya to perform with another agent, (just briefly, before I escaped to Bodrum) and what a fiasco that was!  Besides, I’m quite happy in Istanbul.

To my surprise, he contacted me again to introduce me to a colleague of his.  The second agent proposed my performing nightly in a beautiful, historic venue in Alanya.  Still not a perfect fit–he wanted me to start work mid-April, but I have obligations here until at LEAST May.  I thought if I went anywhere to dance this summer, it would be to Fethiye for three months, starting early June or so.

He told me to think about it and he would call me the next morning at 9:00.  If I’m not mistaken, my mother and I were enjoying some homemade carrot cake pancakes (YUM!) when he called the following day 9:01 am.  He listed all the reasons I should take this job, offered to postpone my start date, and asked if he could fly me down to Alanya so I could “see the venue, the city, and how he operated.”  The answer to that was “Of course!”

I told him I could make the trip the following weekend, after my mother’s visit had finished.  After all, she and I were hanging out in Istanbul!

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But since he preferred to meet this weekend, he suggested that he send for both me and my mother.  Soooo. . .  my mother and I were flown to sunny Alanya and put up in a nice hotel, visited the beach, and also met the very professional, persistent and polite manager, his supportive and hardworking wife, and their charming, cheerful 4 year old daughter.  We were thoroughly introduced to the venue–

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Beautiful and old!

its grounds, stage, staff, food, and owner are all very lovely–and shown the apartment in which I’d be living were I to take the job.  The venue is open 11 months a year, so my mom and I also got a chance to watch the winter/off-season program, which was highly entertaining.

Between what seems like a most pleasant workplace, and a south facing, sea-view apartment situated right across, and I mean right across the street from the beach, I must say I’m enticed.

My mom is already planning to come back.

Dance Life

After long post-New Year’s hiatus during January and most of February, my performance schedule started to pick up toward the third week of February, starting with my show in Van, then the listening party for a pop singer called Arman, where I performed with incredible percussionist Bünyamin Olguncan, and some other great musicians at Ghetto Music Lounge.  (Don’t ask me why it’s called that, but it’s a cool place.)

This Friday and Saturday past, I performed with Besidos, the Balkan-gypsy-pop quartet of Germany in their shows at Nublu Istanbul.  It was so much fun!  Here’s a video from Saturday:

Yesterday was pretty cool, too.  I, along with 29 other dancers, performed an oryantal choreography in a music video for Israeli singer Dudu, to be released this summer in Israel.  We also had to sing a bit.  In Hebrew!  The filming took place in a beautiful hotel on the Bosphorus in the Tarabya area of Istanbul and lasted allllllll day.  I met some cool dancers, and a few weird ones, too.

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So much fun!  What’s next?

Van Show

I hadn’t heard of Van until a year and a half ago, when the area suffered severe damage, injuries and deaths from a major earthquake. It’s a city near the eastern border of Turkey, about an hour and a half from Iran. When I accepted a gig there, my friend said, Van? That’s the city Turkey forgot about. Why are you going there?
Well, there are plenty of people who haven’t forgotten about Van, namely those who live there, and the those who live for Van-made herbed cheese. The show was a kadınlar matinesi. The closest translation I can come up with is a “ladies’ luncheon”, which took place in a hotel ballroom.
I loooooved the hotel, a five-star ordeal called Rescate, facing the impressively huge Van Lake and breathtakingly beautiful, snow-covered mountains,

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and employing the Best Staff Ever. We (the event organizers, one of the other performers, and I) arrived a day early, so I got a chance to enjoy the Friday night entertainment: live music in the top floor bar. The other entertainer who arrived with us to perform at the matinee was VJ Bülent, the first VJ on Turkish television, and also the first openly gay man on TV in this still rather homophobic country.
I popped out of the hotel early-ish on Saturday morning to visit an esthetician. There was a salon in the hotel, of course, but it wasn’t full service. I made fast friends with the girls in the local Van salon. One of them took me for a quick stroll around Van’s main drag (okay, we went to the bazaar and I bought a colander) and then, of course, we had a photo shoot.

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After heading back to the hotel, I popped into its salon to have my makeup done by the resident makeup artist.

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While I waited backstage, in walked the event organizer, Tayfun, with a man dressed in a black on black suit and with a dimple in his chin. Tayfun introduced me to the man as though I was already supposed to know who he was. As it turns out, it was Atilla Taş, a well-known and well-loved Turkish pop singer.
The show went off without a hitch. It was a packed ballroom of well-dressed ladies on their feet dancing, singing and applauding for four hours. My portion of the show was a 25 minute performance. I listened to Atilla from back stage. One of his songs was an amusing Turkish rendition of Gagnam Style. Not sure if he performed the accompanying dance as well.
That night, our flight was grounded due to cloudy weather. No biggie. One more sleep in a lovely hotel, and one more shower in a bathroom twice as big as my kitchen.

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Life

On Friday I confided in my playsister that I was feeling a teeny twinge of kıskançlık in my heart. She said, “Don’t be jealous. You have a good life.”
Looking back, it has been a great week.
Khadijah, a dancer from Denver, by way of Saudi Arabia, was in Istanbul.

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We squeezed a lot into her visit–costume shopping, a visit to musician Raquy’s Darbuka Ofis for a bit of drumming and henna,

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a show at Gar Muzikhol where we saw Athena perform,

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a photo shoot with photographers Beatriz (Brazil) and Kareem (Egypt), mutual friends of Athena and Khadijah, but who I was only just meeting, and the Fındıkzade bazaar.
Khadijah left on Saturday and I met up with a few people to visit a smallish club, which was overly crowded and a bit smoky, but otherwise good, then to a huge club, which was also overly crowded, but had some flexible trapeze artists performing above us.

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Today I met up with dancer friends Athena and Leeann for brunch and a trip to the salon, where I got a magenta lock of hair!

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Now I’m at Hits On Air, where my percussionist friend Coşar (formerly of Baba Zula) is recording an album.

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Tomorrow, a trip to the bank and tax office. Woo hoo!

What fun things did you do this week?

A Nomadic Belly Dancer’s New Year’s Eve

It was perfect that I signed my gig contract two months before New Year’s Eve, because the two weeks prior to the 31st, when everyone is clamoring to book talent for the biggest night out of the year, I was to be in the US on holiday with my family, with my Turkish telephone turned off. My performance was to be in Adana, in southern Turkey, at Inci Hotel.

After what seemed like a never-ending intercontinental journey comprised of less than restful neck-lolling, open-mouthed plane sleep and idle time at Heathrow, I returned from Los Angeles to my Istanbul apartment at one am on December 30th, only to unpack my suitcase, fall into bed at three, and wake up five hours later to head back to the airport.

I met my agent in Taksim where I was to leave via shuttle for Atatürk International.  We’d cut it close–my costume designer had finished my NYE costume while I was in the States and sent it via cargo from Fethiye to Istanbul, where my agent collected it so she could hand it to me before I left for Adana.  Sure, I could have worn any number of costumes, but everyone knows it’s good luck to wear a brand new one on New Year’s Eve.  It’s important.  Some people eat black eyed peas. . . .

My ride to the airport and flight to Adana passed in a blur.  The delirium from being overly tired is akin to that of being overly drunk.  Once I got to Adana, though, it was all smooth-sailing.  A driver met me at the airport, took me to the hotel, and I was shown to my room.  The first thing I noticed was that there were big posters throughout the hotel with my photo on them.  Very movie starrish.

NYE 2013

NYE 2013

The guest services manager went quite out of her way to make sure I was comfortable, fed, and entertained.  She even went as far as to take me out for Turkish coffee, complete with a psychic coffee grind and tarot reading.  (2013 is going to be a successful year for me.  Also, love is on the way.  More specifically, sometime in the next three months.)

Inci is a four star hotel, but the treatment I received was five stars.  The hotel’s tailor did the small but important final alterations on my costume, my food was brought to my room without my having ordered it, and I spent a wonderful afternoon in the Turkish bath and spa.  In addition to receiving one of the top three massages of my life, (maybe the best ever), the hotel called in an esthetician just for me.  I also had a garson looking after me: escorting me from my room to the dressing room before showtime, bringing me food, water, and wine, and keeping me to my schedule.

There were three events in the hotel: one in each ballroom, and another in the hotel’s  nightclub.  I performed in all three.  The first of the three shows was tremendously fun.  There was a lively crowd of families, groups of friends, and happy people of all ages, generous tips flew, and there was a stage that slowly rose into the air before floating back down to ground level as I  performed my drum solo.  I found it a bit weird that one of the DJs made it known to me that he was hoping for a tip for playing for me.  Way to take the pleasure out of something I had already planned to do!  At least he had the decency to look embarrassed about it.  I cannot say the same about his fellow DJ, who approached me later about the same topic, and was beyond tacky about it.

The second ballroom had a weird energy to it.  I don’t know whether the musician who’d performed before me had been singing melancholy songs about heartbreak and sorrow, or what, but when I entered the room, everyone seemed subdued, as though they’d all taken Quaaludes.  They brightened up considerably once my music started to play, but nothing to compare with the first salon.  I clapped a bit while I was on stage, as I’ve seen some Turkish dancers do to engage a clueless touristic crowd, but the only person in the audience to follow my initiative and clap along with any enthusiasm was a very happy and excited young woman with some apparent mental disabilities.  After I performed on stage, I did a round of alatura–this is when I dance around the tables, encouraging others to dance.  I danced with the ladies, their husbands, and their children–you know, being fun, being charming.  Well, while lots of people got up to dance and filled the dance floor, and dozens of people beckoned me to pause for a photo, no one seemed to be tipping.  I thought it was odd, and I daresay I felt a bit under-appreciated!

Well, who should be the first to tip me but a low-life pervert?  It irritates me to recall the lout who copped a feel under the guise of tipping me with a flourish.  Stunned and outraged, I pulled away from him defensively, and glaring at him, thought for a moment before slapping him across the temple with as much force as my bejeweled little hand would allow.  My urge was to choke him as I’d learned in Judo, but I couldn’t.  I had to be dignified and settle for a slap.  My little garson hadn’t been much of a bodyguard, but the general manager seemed to materialize instantaneously.  The sister/wife?? (if wife, poor thing)/female friend or cousin of my aggressor apologized profusely, blaming her comrade’s beastly behavior on his excessive alcohol consumption.  The garson quickly ushered me far away from the scene, and the music played on.

My moral (morale) was pretty bozuk (means broken, read: low) at that point, but my performance time hadn’t ended, so I went back to the dance floor, which was far from the scene of the crime, and filling up, and joined the innocent and ecstatic young woman who’d been clapping with me earlier, along with her parents, for a dance.  Just before my final whirl off stage to the sanctuary of the dressing room, a couple asked me to pose with them for a picture, thanked me, and handed me a 100 lira note.  These two things helped to ease the eery feeling that haunted me from the prior incident, although it took a little while before I could shake the creeps completely.

Luckily, my next show wasn’t until half an hour later.  The story of my unfortunate incident had preceded me backstage, where the musicians proceeded to tell me how well I’d done to slap the miscreant.  By the time I went on stage for my third and final performance, I’d regained my composure and joyful disposition.  The atmosphere of the third party was splendid, mirroring that of the first, and I closed on a high note.  I was escorted to my room, where I slept blissfully for 4 hours, before waking up to breakfast and–another trip to the airport.

All in all, a mostly wonderful experience.  Not to mention a lucrative one.  Quite lucrative.

New for New Year's Eve

New for New Year’s Eve!
Costume by Pırıltıkostüm Moda

 

 

 

Dancing in DC

My week-long stay in Washington, DC was a whirlwind of friends, family, fine food, and of course, dancing.
Arriving on a Thursday at midnight, I performed the next day at TurCuisine, and then again on Saturday at Sahara Lounge. These are my favorite places to perform in the DC/MD/VA area, because the atmosphere is lovely, and both venues give me the Beyonce treatment. I hadn’t performed at Sahara since they opened a few years ago, and they’ve expanded their bright family-style restaurant to include a smoky, happenin’ hookah lounge and bar next door.

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Another highlight was my second performance at TurCuisine the following Friday. I gained two new fans. After the show, a two year old boy and his three year old sister approached me to say hello. Unbeknownst to their parents, the boy reached into his pocket to tip me with his very own money. Not to be upstaged by her little brother, the girl rushed back to her table to present me with a precious (plastic) jewel.

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Now I’m in LA with more family

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until December 28th. I know my trip is coming to an end, because I’ve just awakened from a version of the recurring nightmare I have where I’m in the right country at the wrong time–in my dream, I nearly missed my flight back to Turkey, and therefore, my New Year’s Eve performance in Adana. Cold sweat!

Happy holidays, everyone!

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Belly Dancer Days

If you’re a belly dancer who performs at weekends and special events, you’ve got a lot of extra time on your hands. Day time, specifically. And while I love eating lunch in my pajamas as much as the next person, free time, when available in excess, can be difficult to fully appreciate.

My schedule has changed with the seasons, and now I’m much busier. After a hiatus from teaching dance in order to travel this summer, I’ve resumed my two belly dance classes at An ve An in Halkalı, plus added two cardio-dance classes to the program. Additionally, a group of Turkish women has engaged me for a private weekly belly dance lesson, and that’s pretty fun.

I also have been “day-lighting” as a part-time governess. Just for three hours a day, two days a week. Variety is the spice of life, so why not fill that early afternoon slot? Primary duties of this position include homework support and baking vegan sweets with a little girl, plus a bit of literacy tutoring and playing make-believe. Full time play tutoring can be highly lucrative, but for me, six hours a week at this gig is plenty.

I’ve also agreed to edit a book. It is a memoir about a man’s experience as a first-time father in Turkey. He tells a good story, and it’s an interesting read, but he gets a bit touchy about some of the edits I make. I figure the more criticism he receives from me, the less he’ll have to deal with once it’s published.

I also try to take at least one day a week to practice to live music now that my darbuka player and I are both back in town. (He travels to perform a lot. I’d like to get on his level–his band just came off of a month-long European tour.) My drummer/friend and I (and sometimes his super-talented 11 year old son) practice together and record the sessions. Video is a valuable tool–great for identifying and correcting the hideous mistakes unknowingly made during a performance. When I’m satisfied with one of the videos, I’ll post it here.

Even working these grueling daytime hours (usually about one to three hours a day, four days a week), I still have my belly dancer priorities in order, which, last week, included having this turquoise costume made:

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I love this costume designer! Adding her to my list of favorites.

Oh, and starting next week, I’ll be choreographing a few numbers for Istanbul International Community School’s high school theater production of Oliver Twist. Here’s a link to the wonderful 1968 musical, Oliver! It’s brilliant.

Belly Dance, Travel, and Three-Piece Suits

It was a comment from my mother that brought to my attention the fact that my blog was lacking an up-to-date post. I haven’t got anything particularly unusual to report, but here’s what I’ve been up to since my dance gig aboard the Aegean Odyssey finished:

My last performance on the cruise took place on August 25.

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The next morning we docked in Izmir, and I was in a rush against the clock to get off the ship and to the airport. I was headed to England by way of Istanbul for three days of exploring England with the British bf.

Below is a photo of a man I spied on the street in Oxford. He was not a tourist attraction of Ye Olde England, but rather a "regular bloke" who happened to dress this way.

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We also visited the beautiful Blenheim Palace. Absolutely fabulous. Below is a photo I snapped of a loving couple locked in an enthusiastic embrace.

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After England, the next destination was Izmir/Çeşme/Çandarlı in Turkey for the wedding of one of my bf’s best friends.

What a lovely place!

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Now back in Istanbul, I’ve finally unpacked my suitcases for awhile and am settling into my regular life of performing:

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and my new favorite pastime, cooking and baking vegan food. See culinary success (adzuki bean burger) below.

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(Culinary failures not pictured.)

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