Adventures in Danceland

So, my mother came to Turkey for the first time.  Yay!

Mom and me.  Do we look alike?

Mom and me. Do we look alike?

We had a great time and did lots!  Here is one of our adventures:

A talent manager/agent contacted me to discuss at length (ad nauseum?) an opportunity to perform at hotels in Alanya, but I turned it down.  What he’d described  didn’t seem like a good fit.–It sounded very similar to what I’d done in Bodrum two summers ago, which was only wonderful until I got fed up with it.  Plus, I’d already been to Alanya to perform with another agent, (just briefly, before I escaped to Bodrum) and what a fiasco that was!  Besides, I’m quite happy in Istanbul.

To my surprise, he contacted me again to introduce me to a colleague of his.  The second agent proposed my performing nightly in a beautiful, historic venue in Alanya.  Still not a perfect fit–he wanted me to start work mid-April, but I have obligations here until at LEAST May.  I thought if I went anywhere to dance this summer, it would be to Fethiye for three months, starting early June or so.

He told me to think about it and he would call me the next morning at 9:00.  If I’m not mistaken, my mother and I were enjoying some homemade carrot cake pancakes (YUM!) when he called the following day 9:01 am.  He listed all the reasons I should take this job, offered to postpone my start date, and asked if he could fly me down to Alanya so I could “see the venue, the city, and how he operated.”  The answer to that was “Of course!”

I told him I could make the trip the following weekend, after my mother’s visit had finished.  After all, she and I were hanging out in Istanbul!

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But since he preferred to meet this weekend, he suggested that he send for both me and my mother.  Soooo. . .  my mother and I were flown to sunny Alanya and put up in a nice hotel, visited the beach, and also met the very professional, persistent and polite manager, his supportive and hardworking wife, and their charming, cheerful 4 year old daughter.  We were thoroughly introduced to the venue–

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Beautiful and old!

its grounds, stage, staff, food, and owner are all very lovely–and shown the apartment in which I’d be living were I to take the job.  The venue is open 11 months a year, so my mom and I also got a chance to watch the winter/off-season program, which was highly entertaining.

Between what seems like a most pleasant workplace, and a south facing, sea-view apartment situated right across, and I mean right across the street from the beach, I must say I’m enticed.

My mom is already planning to come back.

2013 To Do List

This is more of a to-do list than a list of resolutions.  I reckon that the second to last item on the list would be classified as a resolution, though, and the last item fits into both categories.

-Visit Hong Kong.
-Visit Holland and/or other countries.
-Hike in Great Falls.
-Take my mother to Cappadocia.
-Choreograph a difficult piece of music.
-Be ridiculously selective about the dance engagements I accept.
-Spend a month or more in the US.
-Write a lot.
-Read a lot.
-Dance a lot, and in interesting places.
-Prepare an elaborate, multi-course, gourmet vegan meal. Serve it to some
omnivores.
-Practice yoga a lot.
-Have a temporary extension put in my hair that is hot pink or
some other outrageous color.
-Party more than last year.
-Cook my way through the Veganomicon cookbook my sister gave me for giftmas.
-Wear even more jewelry.
-Talk a little bit less sometimes.
-Chill out.

This post was inspired by Tia’s New Year’s Bucket List.

A Nomadic Belly Dancer’s New Year’s Eve

It was perfect that I signed my gig contract two months before New Year’s Eve, because the two weeks prior to the 31st, when everyone is clamoring to book talent for the biggest night out of the year, I was to be in the US on holiday with my family, with my Turkish telephone turned off. My performance was to be in Adana, in southern Turkey, at Inci Hotel.

After what seemed like a never-ending intercontinental journey comprised of less than restful neck-lolling, open-mouthed plane sleep and idle time at Heathrow, I returned from Los Angeles to my Istanbul apartment at one am on December 30th, only to unpack my suitcase, fall into bed at three, and wake up five hours later to head back to the airport.

I met my agent in Taksim where I was to leave via shuttle for Atatürk International.  We’d cut it close–my costume designer had finished my NYE costume while I was in the States and sent it via cargo from Fethiye to Istanbul, where my agent collected it so she could hand it to me before I left for Adana.  Sure, I could have worn any number of costumes, but everyone knows it’s good luck to wear a brand new one on New Year’s Eve.  It’s important.  Some people eat black eyed peas. . . .

My ride to the airport and flight to Adana passed in a blur.  The delirium from being overly tired is akin to that of being overly drunk.  Once I got to Adana, though, it was all smooth-sailing.  A driver met me at the airport, took me to the hotel, and I was shown to my room.  The first thing I noticed was that there were big posters throughout the hotel with my photo on them.  Very movie starrish.

NYE 2013

NYE 2013

The guest services manager went quite out of her way to make sure I was comfortable, fed, and entertained.  She even went as far as to take me out for Turkish coffee, complete with a psychic coffee grind and tarot reading.  (2013 is going to be a successful year for me.  Also, love is on the way.  More specifically, sometime in the next three months.)

Inci is a four star hotel, but the treatment I received was five stars.  The hotel’s tailor did the small but important final alterations on my costume, my food was brought to my room without my having ordered it, and I spent a wonderful afternoon in the Turkish bath and spa.  In addition to receiving one of the top three massages of my life, (maybe the best ever), the hotel called in an esthetician just for me.  I also had a garson looking after me: escorting me from my room to the dressing room before showtime, bringing me food, water, and wine, and keeping me to my schedule.

There were three events in the hotel: one in each ballroom, and another in the hotel’s  nightclub.  I performed in all three.  The first of the three shows was tremendously fun.  There was a lively crowd of families, groups of friends, and happy people of all ages, generous tips flew, and there was a stage that slowly rose into the air before floating back down to ground level as I  performed my drum solo.  I found it a bit weird that one of the DJs made it known to me that he was hoping for a tip for playing for me.  Way to take the pleasure out of something I had already planned to do!  At least he had the decency to look embarrassed about it.  I cannot say the same about his fellow DJ, who approached me later about the same topic, and was beyond tacky about it.

The second ballroom had a weird energy to it.  I don’t know whether the musician who’d performed before me had been singing melancholy songs about heartbreak and sorrow, or what, but when I entered the room, everyone seemed subdued, as though they’d all taken Quaaludes.  They brightened up considerably once my music started to play, but nothing to compare with the first salon.  I clapped a bit while I was on stage, as I’ve seen some Turkish dancers do to engage a clueless touristic crowd, but the only person in the audience to follow my initiative and clap along with any enthusiasm was a very happy and excited young woman with some apparent mental disabilities.  After I performed on stage, I did a round of alatura–this is when I dance around the tables, encouraging others to dance.  I danced with the ladies, their husbands, and their children–you know, being fun, being charming.  Well, while lots of people got up to dance and filled the dance floor, and dozens of people beckoned me to pause for a photo, no one seemed to be tipping.  I thought it was odd, and I daresay I felt a bit under-appreciated!

Well, who should be the first to tip me but a low-life pervert?  It irritates me to recall the lout who copped a feel under the guise of tipping me with a flourish.  Stunned and outraged, I pulled away from him defensively, and glaring at him, thought for a moment before slapping him across the temple with as much force as my bejeweled little hand would allow.  My urge was to choke him as I’d learned in Judo, but I couldn’t.  I had to be dignified and settle for a slap.  My little garson hadn’t been much of a bodyguard, but the general manager seemed to materialize instantaneously.  The sister/wife?? (if wife, poor thing)/female friend or cousin of my aggressor apologized profusely, blaming her comrade’s beastly behavior on his excessive alcohol consumption.  The garson quickly ushered me far away from the scene, and the music played on.

My moral (morale) was pretty bozuk (means broken, read: low) at that point, but my performance time hadn’t ended, so I went back to the dance floor, which was far from the scene of the crime, and filling up, and joined the innocent and ecstatic young woman who’d been clapping with me earlier, along with her parents, for a dance.  Just before my final whirl off stage to the sanctuary of the dressing room, a couple asked me to pose with them for a picture, thanked me, and handed me a 100 lira note.  These two things helped to ease the eery feeling that haunted me from the prior incident, although it took a little while before I could shake the creeps completely.

Luckily, my next show wasn’t until half an hour later.  The story of my unfortunate incident had preceded me backstage, where the musicians proceeded to tell me how well I’d done to slap the miscreant.  By the time I went on stage for my third and final performance, I’d regained my composure and joyful disposition.  The atmosphere of the third party was splendid, mirroring that of the first, and I closed on a high note.  I was escorted to my room, where I slept blissfully for 4 hours, before waking up to breakfast and–another trip to the airport.

All in all, a mostly wonderful experience.  Not to mention a lucrative one.  Quite lucrative.

New for New Year's Eve

New for New Year’s Eve!
Costume by Pırıltıkostüm Moda

 

 

 

Belly Dancer Days

If you’re a belly dancer who performs at weekends and special events, you’ve got a lot of extra time on your hands. Day time, specifically. And while I love eating lunch in my pajamas as much as the next person, free time, when available in excess, can be difficult to fully appreciate.

My schedule has changed with the seasons, and now I’m much busier. After a hiatus from teaching dance in order to travel this summer, I’ve resumed my two belly dance classes at An ve An in Halkalı, plus added two cardio-dance classes to the program. Additionally, a group of Turkish women has engaged me for a private weekly belly dance lesson, and that’s pretty fun.

I also have been “day-lighting” as a part-time governess. Just for three hours a day, two days a week. Variety is the spice of life, so why not fill that early afternoon slot? Primary duties of this position include homework support and baking vegan sweets with a little girl, plus a bit of literacy tutoring and playing make-believe. Full time play tutoring can be highly lucrative, but for me, six hours a week at this gig is plenty.

I’ve also agreed to edit a book. It is a memoir about a man’s experience as a first-time father in Turkey. He tells a good story, and it’s an interesting read, but he gets a bit touchy about some of the edits I make. I figure the more criticism he receives from me, the less he’ll have to deal with once it’s published.

I also try to take at least one day a week to practice to live music now that my darbuka player and I are both back in town. (He travels to perform a lot. I’d like to get on his level–his band just came off of a month-long European tour.) My drummer/friend and I (and sometimes his super-talented 11 year old son) practice together and record the sessions. Video is a valuable tool–great for identifying and correcting the hideous mistakes unknowingly made during a performance. When I’m satisfied with one of the videos, I’ll post it here.

Even working these grueling daytime hours (usually about one to three hours a day, four days a week), I still have my belly dancer priorities in order, which, last week, included having this turquoise costume made:

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I love this costume designer! Adding her to my list of favorites.

Oh, and starting next week, I’ll be choreographing a few numbers for Istanbul International Community School’s high school theater production of Oliver Twist. Here’s a link to the wonderful 1968 musical, Oliver! It’s brilliant.

Why Turkey?

*Klasik bir soru: Neden Türkiye?

People, especially Turkish people, are always asking me why on Earth I choose to live in Turkey. Upon meeting a new person, I am more often than not faced with this question, usually followed by a half-joking: “We Turks want to go to America!”

Well, here is my reply.

For one, Turkey’s just plain interesting. My, what vast contrasts it has! It’s modern and ancient and cosmopolitan and quaint at the same time. Take this guy, a karpuzcu, selling watermelons off of his horse-drawn cart.

You don’t see that in Washington, DC!

I spotted him on my way to a charming bakery for Sunday breakfast in a chic area of the city called Nişantaşı. As luck would have it, when I returned home two hours later, he happened to be parked on my street.

Mmm, watermelon.

Another reason I’m still in Turkey is because it is beautiful. Take Istanbul, for example. It is a bustling, chaotic city, but you don’t have to look very far for a beautiful view of the sea.

You might even get lucky and have a friend or a work contact who owns a boat where you can hang out and do a little yacht yoga.

Camel pose, tree pose, cheeky pose

As the “unusual and interesting” foreign dancer, you get opportunities to perform with internationally renowned musicians. You might even get a chaise lounge in your dressing room!!!

BaBa ZuLa concert at EcoFest Istanbul. . . Note that my backstage pass reads “ARTIST” in Turkish. Please also note my glitter gel.

And of course, while doing what you love for a living is delightful, doing what you love for a living while on a boat is divine.

“I’m on a boat, m***** f*****.” –T. Payne

So, there you have it–my answer to *the classic question* “Why Turkey?”–here in photographs.

 

Ladies’ Party in the Turkish Bath

I’ve performed in amphitheaters, on beaches, on boats, at concerts, in government buildings, hotels, nightclubs, restaurants, schools, and once on the set of a television show. Now I can add “Turkish bath” to the list.

Monday I performed in the beautiful marble garden of one of Istanbul’s oldest historic Turkish bathhouses (a hamam).

Pretty tiles and beads and things

A bride to be and 49 of her closest female friends and family were celebrating her impending wedding to her soulmate or whomever she’d arranged to marry.

When I arrived at the hamam I immediately recognized it as the Turkish bath I’d visited with my dear friend Alia several years ago in Istanbul. I remember feeling a bit uncomfortable that day when the ladies who’d given us our scrub-downs hovered outside our dressing room after we’d left the treatment area (to make sure they received tips from us), but that didn’t sully what was overall a fantastic experience.

Anyway, a very ornate and beautiful place.

Clockwise L to R: Individual dressing/relaxion room, antique Turkish pitcher, Ottoman era traditional dress, me pre-show. Center: stack of “pestemal”–hamam towels

. . . And a fun group of party-goers, all dancing and having a good time. :)

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