Adventures in Danceland

So, my mother came to Turkey for the first time.  Yay!

Mom and me.  Do we look alike?

Mom and me. Do we look alike?

We had a great time and did lots!  Here is one of our adventures:

A talent manager/agent contacted me to discuss at length (ad nauseum?) an opportunity to perform at hotels in Alanya, but I turned it down.  What he’d described  didn’t seem like a good fit.–It sounded very similar to what I’d done in Bodrum two summers ago, which was only wonderful until I got fed up with it.  Plus, I’d already been to Alanya to perform with another agent, (just briefly, before I escaped to Bodrum) and what a fiasco that was!  Besides, I’m quite happy in Istanbul.

To my surprise, he contacted me again to introduce me to a colleague of his.  The second agent proposed my performing nightly in a beautiful, historic venue in Alanya.  Still not a perfect fit–he wanted me to start work mid-April, but I have obligations here until at LEAST May.  I thought if I went anywhere to dance this summer, it would be to Fethiye for three months, starting early June or so.

He told me to think about it and he would call me the next morning at 9:00.  If I’m not mistaken, my mother and I were enjoying some homemade carrot cake pancakes (YUM!) when he called the following day 9:01 am.  He listed all the reasons I should take this job, offered to postpone my start date, and asked if he could fly me down to Alanya so I could “see the venue, the city, and how he operated.”  The answer to that was “Of course!”

I told him I could make the trip the following weekend, after my mother’s visit had finished.  After all, she and I were hanging out in Istanbul!

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But since he preferred to meet this weekend, he suggested that he send for both me and my mother.  Soooo. . .  my mother and I were flown to sunny Alanya and put up in a nice hotel, visited the beach, and also met the very professional, persistent and polite manager, his supportive and hardworking wife, and their charming, cheerful 4 year old daughter.  We were thoroughly introduced to the venue–

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Beautiful and old!

its grounds, stage, staff, food, and owner are all very lovely–and shown the apartment in which I’d be living were I to take the job.  The venue is open 11 months a year, so my mom and I also got a chance to watch the winter/off-season program, which was highly entertaining.

Between what seems like a most pleasant workplace, and a south facing, sea-view apartment situated right across, and I mean right across the street from the beach, I must say I’m enticed.

My mom is already planning to come back.

Dance Life

After long post-New Year’s hiatus during January and most of February, my performance schedule started to pick up toward the third week of February, starting with my show in Van, then the listening party for a pop singer called Arman, where I performed with incredible percussionist Bünyamin Olguncan, and some other great musicians at Ghetto Music Lounge.  (Don’t ask me why it’s called that, but it’s a cool place.)

This Friday and Saturday past, I performed with Besidos, the Balkan-gypsy-pop quartet of Germany in their shows at Nublu Istanbul.  It was so much fun!  Here’s a video from Saturday:

Yesterday was pretty cool, too.  I, along with 29 other dancers, performed an oryantal choreography in a music video for Israeli singer Dudu, to be released this summer in Israel.  We also had to sing a bit.  In Hebrew!  The filming took place in a beautiful hotel on the Bosphorus in the Tarabya area of Istanbul and lasted allllllll day.  I met some cool dancers, and a few weird ones, too.

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So much fun!  What’s next?

Hey, old maid! Thoughts on aging and Turkey.

Turkish people have a unique perspective on aging.  Here in Istanbul, it’s common for couples to marry in their early or mid-20s, and begin having children shortly after that.  An unmarried woman who’s in her late 20s might receive this “charming” comment: “Evde kaldın artık.”  Literally, it translates as, “You’ve stayed at [your parents'] home”, but the meaning is: “You’re an old maid.”

My (Turkish) dentist once told me that Turkish people don’t take very good care of themselves.  Of course, there are exceptions to this rule, but I have observed that most men have begun to develop a “Turkish balcony” (fat belly) by the time they reach 27 or so, and I also understand (I received this information during the same conversation with said dentist) that the average age for full dentures in this country is 40.  When I mentioned to a friend that I hoped to have all my same teeth for the rest of my life, she and her adult son laughed heartily.  They genuinely thought I was joking, as though this were an impossible goal.  Further, and rather unfortunately, it’s more common to smoke cigarettes here than to not smoke.  A lot of my acquaintances here also visit the tanning booths, and I don’t know anyone here who uses sun cream, except maybe on a day at the beach.

I know that aging, and all that comes with it, is difficult for people everywhere.  Even I, who happily entered my flirty thirties this past June, felt a bit wistful when I looked into the mirror at age 27 and realized I no longer looked 16.  Still, when my baby-faced friend was moaning about “getting old” on her 22nd birthday, it was hard not to roll my eyes.  Actually, I’m pretty sure I did roll my eyes, and then, like a crotchety old woman, I probably lectured her, saying something like, “Please!  Stop wasting your youth mourning your youth.”

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Here in Turkey, 55 is old.  65 is ancient.  When I told someone my mother’s age, he asked if she could still walk and get around easily.  What?  Walk?!  My mother can touch her toes without bending her knees.

The contractor working in my apartment building is one of the exceptions to this early aging phenomenon.  While he did marry young and have two children well before 30, he doesn’t look any older than he is.  At forty, he’s divorced, fit as a fiddle, has never smoked cigarettes, and drinks only the occasional beer.  He looks pretty good, actually.  I even admit to checking him out while he was moving my refrigerator.  But guess what?  He certainly wasn’t checking me out.  He thought I was a university student, a few years older than his son.  Instead, he had a crush on my friend, who was visiting me from the United States.  She’ll be 50 next month!

Youth is fleeting, and I certainly take precautions now to preserve mine, but life is a gift at every stage, and since aging is inevitable, why not try to enjoy it?

Van Show

I hadn’t heard of Van until a year and a half ago, when the area suffered severe damage, injuries and deaths from a major earthquake. It’s a city near the eastern border of Turkey, about an hour and a half from Iran. When I accepted a gig there, my friend said, Van? That’s the city Turkey forgot about. Why are you going there?
Well, there are plenty of people who haven’t forgotten about Van, namely those who live there, and the those who live for Van-made herbed cheese. The show was a kadınlar matinesi. The closest translation I can come up with is a “ladies’ luncheon”, which took place in a hotel ballroom.
I loooooved the hotel, a five-star ordeal called Rescate, facing the impressively huge Van Lake and breathtakingly beautiful, snow-covered mountains,

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and employing the Best Staff Ever. We (the event organizers, one of the other performers, and I) arrived a day early, so I got a chance to enjoy the Friday night entertainment: live music in the top floor bar. The other entertainer who arrived with us to perform at the matinee was VJ Bülent, the first VJ on Turkish television, and also the first openly gay man on TV in this still rather homophobic country.
I popped out of the hotel early-ish on Saturday morning to visit an esthetician. There was a salon in the hotel, of course, but it wasn’t full service. I made fast friends with the girls in the local Van salon. One of them took me for a quick stroll around Van’s main drag (okay, we went to the bazaar and I bought a colander) and then, of course, we had a photo shoot.

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After heading back to the hotel, I popped into its salon to have my makeup done by the resident makeup artist.

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While I waited backstage, in walked the event organizer, Tayfun, with a man dressed in a black on black suit and with a dimple in his chin. Tayfun introduced me to the man as though I was already supposed to know who he was. As it turns out, it was Atilla Taş, a well-known and well-loved Turkish pop singer.
The show went off without a hitch. It was a packed ballroom of well-dressed ladies on their feet dancing, singing and applauding for four hours. My portion of the show was a 25 minute performance. I listened to Atilla from back stage. One of his songs was an amusing Turkish rendition of Gagnam Style. Not sure if he performed the accompanying dance as well.
That night, our flight was grounded due to cloudy weather. No biggie. One more sleep in a lovely hotel, and one more shower in a bathroom twice as big as my kitchen.

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Back in Istanbul, doing my thing.

This morning I woke up at the crack of dawn–before that, really, because I was already awake and editing when the call to prayer sounded. Like a good yogini, I took a break from the revisions of the book to do a few sun salutations. (I wonder if I can make that a new habit for 2013?)

There was only a tiny bit of editing left on the book I’d been working on, and I’m pleased to say I’m finally finished!

I enjoyed lying about on January 1st, my first full length-sleep since returning from DC, LA, and Adana. Unfortunately, the relaxation was short-lived.

Wednesday, I returned to my twice weekly sessions with my tutees/charges. I’m the super-part-time governess to one family, and foreign language tutor to the daughter of the family next door to them. I eased back into the position with the help of a few games.

Why, yes, this IS what I do at work.

Why, yes, this IS what I do at work.

Thursday at the studio will be more brutal–longer commute, later start and finish times, and teaching three dance classes back to back after having been away for two and a half weeks.

To make matters worse, I’ve got no fresh food in the fridge to fuel me. I suppose I’ll just have to drink another cup of tea, and hopefully, I’ll make it through the night.

Ah, life!

A Nomadic Belly Dancer’s New Year’s Eve

It was perfect that I signed my gig contract two months before New Year’s Eve, because the two weeks prior to the 31st, when everyone is clamoring to book talent for the biggest night out of the year, I was to be in the US on holiday with my family, with my Turkish telephone turned off. My performance was to be in Adana, in southern Turkey, at Inci Hotel.

After what seemed like a never-ending intercontinental journey comprised of less than restful neck-lolling, open-mouthed plane sleep and idle time at Heathrow, I returned from Los Angeles to my Istanbul apartment at one am on December 30th, only to unpack my suitcase, fall into bed at three, and wake up five hours later to head back to the airport.

I met my agent in Taksim where I was to leave via shuttle for Atatürk International.  We’d cut it close–my costume designer had finished my NYE costume while I was in the States and sent it via cargo from Fethiye to Istanbul, where my agent collected it so she could hand it to me before I left for Adana.  Sure, I could have worn any number of costumes, but everyone knows it’s good luck to wear a brand new one on New Year’s Eve.  It’s important.  Some people eat black eyed peas. . . .

My ride to the airport and flight to Adana passed in a blur.  The delirium from being overly tired is akin to that of being overly drunk.  Once I got to Adana, though, it was all smooth-sailing.  A driver met me at the airport, took me to the hotel, and I was shown to my room.  The first thing I noticed was that there were big posters throughout the hotel with my photo on them.  Very movie starrish.

NYE 2013

NYE 2013

The guest services manager went quite out of her way to make sure I was comfortable, fed, and entertained.  She even went as far as to take me out for Turkish coffee, complete with a psychic coffee grind and tarot reading.  (2013 is going to be a successful year for me.  Also, love is on the way.  More specifically, sometime in the next three months.)

Inci is a four star hotel, but the treatment I received was five stars.  The hotel’s tailor did the small but important final alterations on my costume, my food was brought to my room without my having ordered it, and I spent a wonderful afternoon in the Turkish bath and spa.  In addition to receiving one of the top three massages of my life, (maybe the best ever), the hotel called in an esthetician just for me.  I also had a garson looking after me: escorting me from my room to the dressing room before showtime, bringing me food, water, and wine, and keeping me to my schedule.

There were three events in the hotel: one in each ballroom, and another in the hotel’s  nightclub.  I performed in all three.  The first of the three shows was tremendously fun.  There was a lively crowd of families, groups of friends, and happy people of all ages, generous tips flew, and there was a stage that slowly rose into the air before floating back down to ground level as I  performed my drum solo.  I found it a bit weird that one of the DJs made it known to me that he was hoping for a tip for playing for me.  Way to take the pleasure out of something I had already planned to do!  At least he had the decency to look embarrassed about it.  I cannot say the same about his fellow DJ, who approached me later about the same topic, and was beyond tacky about it.

The second ballroom had a weird energy to it.  I don’t know whether the musician who’d performed before me had been singing melancholy songs about heartbreak and sorrow, or what, but when I entered the room, everyone seemed subdued, as though they’d all taken Quaaludes.  They brightened up considerably once my music started to play, but nothing to compare with the first salon.  I clapped a bit while I was on stage, as I’ve seen some Turkish dancers do to engage a clueless touristic crowd, but the only person in the audience to follow my initiative and clap along with any enthusiasm was a very happy and excited young woman with some apparent mental disabilities.  After I performed on stage, I did a round of alatura–this is when I dance around the tables, encouraging others to dance.  I danced with the ladies, their husbands, and their children–you know, being fun, being charming.  Well, while lots of people got up to dance and filled the dance floor, and dozens of people beckoned me to pause for a photo, no one seemed to be tipping.  I thought it was odd, and I daresay I felt a bit under-appreciated!

Well, who should be the first to tip me but a low-life pervert?  It irritates me to recall the lout who copped a feel under the guise of tipping me with a flourish.  Stunned and outraged, I pulled away from him defensively, and glaring at him, thought for a moment before slapping him across the temple with as much force as my bejeweled little hand would allow.  My urge was to choke him as I’d learned in Judo, but I couldn’t.  I had to be dignified and settle for a slap.  My little garson hadn’t been much of a bodyguard, but the general manager seemed to materialize instantaneously.  The sister/wife?? (if wife, poor thing)/female friend or cousin of my aggressor apologized profusely, blaming her comrade’s beastly behavior on his excessive alcohol consumption.  The garson quickly ushered me far away from the scene, and the music played on.

My moral (morale) was pretty bozuk (means broken, read: low) at that point, but my performance time hadn’t ended, so I went back to the dance floor, which was far from the scene of the crime, and filling up, and joined the innocent and ecstatic young woman who’d been clapping with me earlier, along with her parents, for a dance.  Just before my final whirl off stage to the sanctuary of the dressing room, a couple asked me to pose with them for a picture, thanked me, and handed me a 100 lira note.  These two things helped to ease the eery feeling that haunted me from the prior incident, although it took a little while before I could shake the creeps completely.

Luckily, my next show wasn’t until half an hour later.  The story of my unfortunate incident had preceded me backstage, where the musicians proceeded to tell me how well I’d done to slap the miscreant.  By the time I went on stage for my third and final performance, I’d regained my composure and joyful disposition.  The atmosphere of the third party was splendid, mirroring that of the first, and I closed on a high note.  I was escorted to my room, where I slept blissfully for 4 hours, before waking up to breakfast and–another trip to the airport.

All in all, a mostly wonderful experience.  Not to mention a lucrative one.  Quite lucrative.

New for New Year's Eve

New for New Year’s Eve!
Costume by Pırıltıkostüm Moda

 

 

 

Dancing in DC

My week-long stay in Washington, DC was a whirlwind of friends, family, fine food, and of course, dancing.
Arriving on a Thursday at midnight, I performed the next day at TurCuisine, and then again on Saturday at Sahara Lounge. These are my favorite places to perform in the DC/MD/VA area, because the atmosphere is lovely, and both venues give me the Beyonce treatment. I hadn’t performed at Sahara since they opened a few years ago, and they’ve expanded their bright family-style restaurant to include a smoky, happenin’ hookah lounge and bar next door.

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Another highlight was my second performance at TurCuisine the following Friday. I gained two new fans. After the show, a two year old boy and his three year old sister approached me to say hello. Unbeknownst to their parents, the boy reached into his pocket to tip me with his very own money. Not to be upstaged by her little brother, the girl rushed back to her table to present me with a precious (plastic) jewel.

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Now I’m in LA with more family

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until December 28th. I know my trip is coming to an end, because I’ve just awakened from a version of the recurring nightmare I have where I’m in the right country at the wrong time–in my dream, I nearly missed my flight back to Turkey, and therefore, my New Year’s Eve performance in Adana. Cold sweat!

Happy holidays, everyone!

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Belly Dance, Travel, and Three-Piece Suits

It was a comment from my mother that brought to my attention the fact that my blog was lacking an up-to-date post. I haven’t got anything particularly unusual to report, but here’s what I’ve been up to since my dance gig aboard the Aegean Odyssey finished:

My last performance on the cruise took place on August 25.

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The next morning we docked in Izmir, and I was in a rush against the clock to get off the ship and to the airport. I was headed to England by way of Istanbul for three days of exploring England with the British bf.

Below is a photo of a man I spied on the street in Oxford. He was not a tourist attraction of Ye Olde England, but rather a "regular bloke" who happened to dress this way.

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We also visited the beautiful Blenheim Palace. Absolutely fabulous. Below is a photo I snapped of a loving couple locked in an enthusiastic embrace.

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After England, the next destination was Izmir/Çeşme/Çandarlı in Turkey for the wedding of one of my bf’s best friends.

What a lovely place!

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Now back in Istanbul, I’ve finally unpacked my suitcases for awhile and am settling into my regular life of performing:

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and my new favorite pastime, cooking and baking vegan food. See culinary success (adzuki bean burger) below.

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(Culinary failures not pictured.)

Cruising

I’ve been hired to perform on a cruise ship that sails from Istanbul, to a few Greek islands, then to Izmir. I perform once every third day for nine days. The rest of the time, I’m on holiday!

Yesterday, we arrived in Santorini, so off I went to explore. I took the cable car up the hill from Old Port to town. It was a bit scary!

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Santorini is old, quaint, and charming

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with incredibly beautiful views.

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After an afternoon of sight seeing, it was time to head back to the ship. I decided to take the stairs instead of the panic attack-inducing cable car.
Taking the stairs proved challenging, as there were LOTS of donkeys heading up the steps as I was going down.

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Maybe a hundred or more!

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Lots of donkey poo also. I had to be careful.

Later that evening, I gave my first of three performances on the ship.

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A lovely day!

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Mini-Break in Bodrum

A little bit of sunbathing:

A little bit of jet-skiing:

A little bit of parasailing:

A little bit of daytime drinking:

Make for a lovely little holiday!

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